Going Where Few Others Have Been, Eritrea

Massawa Island Causeway

As an explorer and adventure seeker, I recently felt the need to experience somewhere new. This desire led me off the beaten path to Eritrea, in East Africa. Situated across the Red Sea from Saudi Arabia and bordered by Sudan, Ethiopia and Djibouti, Eritrea is a hidden gem on the Horn of Africa.

Most non-Africans with the exclusion of Italians, who colonized the country in the late 1800's, have never heard of  Eritrea. This small, arid and sparsely populated country of less than six million people, has recently struggled under crushing UN economic sanctions and internal strife. Some people will wonder why I chose to visit a country whose government is widely regarded as repressive, and autocratic. The answer is simple: politics and government are separate from people. I like supporting real people, like the small business persons I met around the country. Not everything in Eritrea is perfect but neither is it all negative. Seeing Eritrea was well worth my time, energy and effort.

I wasn't sure what to expect but Eritrea surprised me on many levels. Food and accommodation are relatively expensive for being in East Africa. You really can experience three seasons within two hours drive of Asmara. Eritrea is by far the cleanest developing country I've ever seen, and I've seen more than most. I suspect Asmara is even cleaner than Kigali, which is known as "the cleanest city in Africa". The country is also known for being very safe and almost crime-free. We walked the streets of Asmara very late, saw no shady characters, and had no problems. Most importantly we saw loads of local children playing in the streets completely unsupervised at all hours of the day. The major streets were spacious palm tree lined boulevards with cyclists galore zipping around and relatively few cars. Lastly the people I interacted with, were cautiously optimistic about the future but also proud and resilient.

Although Eritrea has been isolated from the world and dubbed "The North Korea of Africa", there appears to be change on the horizon. After many years of struggling for independence from Ethiopia and later maintaining that sovereignty against a larger and internationally backed Ethiopia, there is peace. In July 2018 Ethiopia's Prime Minister Dr. Abiy Ahmed and the President of Eritrea, Isaias Afwerki came to a peace agreement. This agreement was followed by negotiations and diplomatic rapprochement between other countries on the Horn of Africa as well. This reestablishment of normal diplomatic relations between Eritrea and Ethiopia especially has already led to increased trade and reunification of families.

To serve this route, Ethiopian Airlines now offers twice daily flights between Addis Ababa and Asmara, making it easier than ever to discover Eritrea. If you are looking for a luxury vacation with all the amenities, Eritrea is not for you. But if you seek a little adventure in a humble hearty land, undiscovered by the masses, an excellent tour of Eritrea awaits. All countries' citizens except Ugandan and Ethiopian passport holders require visas for entry to Eritrea. You can apply for your visa at your local Eritrean embassy at least six weeks before traveling. Please note that all travelers to Eritrea should be flexible, open-minded and ready to disconnect from the world. You'll camp, fish, swim, snorkel or even dive in the rich warm waters off Dahlak archipelago which teem with coral fish of every color and variety.  You'll also explore Asmara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renown for being a charming modernist city full of Art Deco architecture and other historical ruins around the country.

Cinema Asmara Cafe

The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, Asmara

Now that there is peace between all neighbors in this corner of East Africa, we wonder how long before Eritrea takes advantage of it's unexploited tourism potential. In the future the stunning Red Sea Coast might become a prohibitively expensive honeymoon spot similar to Tahiti or the Maldives. But right now, a tour of Eritrea is within most people's budget. Don't miss out!